Modeling-ABC by Wilfried Eck

 
 
A b C D E F G H I/J K L M N O P q R S T u V W x/y Z

 

R

 

 

radial engines

resin parts

 


radial engines:

Combustion engines with cylinders arranged to form a star. Some had more than one row.

In model kits cylinders lack detail. One has to live with it for it's simply impossible to reproduce the fine cooling ribs accurately. As most WW I rotary engines were of cylindrical shape a more convincing representation can be achieved by sanding the cooling ribs off and winding very fine copper wire around (secured with CA glue).  Another point are electrical (ignition-) cords leading from the crankcase to the individual cylinders. Here also fine wire painted the actual colour (mostly black or red brown) gives better results.

Cylinders in shiny chrome silver may be appropriate for a Harley or Kawasaki motorbike, but not for WW II engines. Actually they were of a light middle gray colour (with a slight brown tint). WW I engines were of very dark colour, nearly black, but with shiny ribs. Crank cases (gear boxes) also appeared in variations of gray, only some pre WW II engines showing dull silver. So do not paint all engines alike.

Try to have a look at the real thing by consulting photos.



resin parts:

Common name for cast plastic parts of non polystyrene material. Sometimes indispensable and sometimes pure waste of money. In between come these parts which are useful, but could be made by the modeler himself, saving money  for more important things.

I saw resin flaps for a P-51, consisting of wedges with rows of depressions trying to depict rivets. In a real P-51 rivets were to be seen, but there were no holes. And what was seen wasn't so prominent to be seen 50 yards away. So the whole affair boiled down to two wedges which could easily be made of shaped sheet plastic. Then there are "the one and only correct control surfaces for a ...", the fabric covering sagging considerably. - Is to say one mistake was substituted by another (the required parts could be easily made, see F5F model). This list could be continued for some length. So have a close look at the parts deemed necessary.

Cynacrylate glue isn't always necessary. Sometimes ordinary household glue is preferable if parts have to be aligned.